Discussed over a pint after the previous trip to Rob's Rocks, this week's trip was going to be a half-day trip to Birchen as Ryan wanted to tick of some routes. I'd invited another climber (Mike T - caving friend) to join us so we could climb as 2 pairs. Unfortunatly Ryan had to cancel a few days later due to other life commitments, so we chose to do Birchen when Ryan could come and myself, Robin & Mike T went to Stanage Edge
Despite the rain at our homes, we believed the forcast and still went, meeting at the car park at 1.30. We chose what gear to take (each of us our having our own rope(s), rack & guide books!!) and headed up to the crag
Mike agreed to lead first - he wanted to see how a recent shoulder injury would be - so lowered his sights from his usual HVS, and warmed up on Ellis's Eliminate, a VS 4c(!), while myself and Robin looked on with a mixture of awe and horror at what we were about to top-rope - and wondering what the rest of the day would bring with our newest climbing partner! This route had much more jamming than we'd ever done before and after watching Mike lead it looked very much a step-up in what I'd ever climbed outdoors
Robin went next and gave it a good go, but unfortunately couldn't make across the ledge and came off
With some trepidation, I gave it a go and did manage to get across (just - I had a minor foot slip but my jams held for long enough) and got to the top
Robin tried again but the jams were too much for his hands on this day - but it was a good effort and I'm sure learnings will be taken away for another attempt on a different day
It was my lead next, and happy with 'whatever starred HS is in this area', Robin Hood's Right-hand Buttress Direct (HS 4a) was recommended as it was one Robin had lead previously and I'd never done. It was a really nice climb and a good recommendation. Robin seconded with Mike following
Robins turn to lead next, and we walked left for a bit to Balcony Buttress (S 4a), with Mike seconding and myself following
It was another lead for Mike, choosing Rib and Face (VS 4c). This was a much different type of climb than Mikes first, with the main event being on the top section as it was more slopers than his preferred hold - hand-jams!
I followed, taking the top section slowly to find the best holds along the breaks
And Robin followed, making it look very easy!
My turn to choose, and right next to Rib and Crack was Stoop Crack (HS 4c). This looked quite easy apart from getting out & over one hollowed inverted V. It was sketchy, and I had a couple of exploratory attempts before committing and, while I don't think I was close to coming off, I was close to being close!
Mike seconded getting over the scoop a slightly different, but nevertheless valid way using more hand-jams then I did, which were 'pinchy'
Robin followed with Mike taking some fantastic pictures from a vantage point just along the crag
The final climb of the day was Robin's choice of Balcony Cracks (S 4a). On the face of it looked quite tame, but it had some moves which gave pause-for-thought and the top section felt steeper than it appeared. Mike seconded and I followed
It was past 7pm by this time so we packed up and sent to the Yorkshire Bridge Inn for drink, snacks & a chat, grateful that the rains hadn't come.
Another great afternoon climbing.
Ryan meanwhile.....
